The Blood Python, scientifically known as Python brongersmai, is a nonvenomous snake native to the Malay Peninsula, Sumatra, and Borneo. It’s a member of the Pythonidae family, which also includes the reticulated python, ball python, and Burmese python, among others.
Blood pythons are known for their striking red coloration and are named for the deep red color that they exhibit in the wild. However, they can also come in a variety of colors and patterns due to selective breeding in captivity.
These snakes are popular as pets due to their manageable size, interesting coloration, and generally calm demeanor. They can grow to be around 5 to 7 feet in length, with females typically being larger than males. However, their temperaments can vary, and some individuals may be more defensive than others. Proper handling and care are essential to ensure a happy and healthy pet blood python.
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Species Summary
The blood python (Python brongersmai) is a nonvenomous python species native to the Malay Peninsula, Sumatra, and Borneo. Here’s a summary of the species:
Scientific Name: Python Brongersmai
Common Names: Blood python, Brongersma’s short-tailed python, red short-tailed python
Physical Description:
- Blood pythons are stout-bodied, with relatively short tails compared to other python species.
- They have a striking appearance, with vibrant red, orange, or brownish-red coloration marked with darker blotches or stripes.
- Adults typically reach lengths between 4 to 6 feet, although some individuals can grow larger.
Habitat and Distribution:
- Blood pythons are found in a variety of habitats, including rainforests, swamps, and marshes.
Behavior:
- Blood pythons are primarily terrestrial, spending much of their time on the ground.
- They are nocturnal and solitary creatures.
Diet:
- They primarily feed on small mammals such as rodents, but they may also consume birds and other reptiles.
Reproduction:
- After mating, females will lay clutches of eggs, typically ranging from 10 to 30 eggs.
- The eggs are incubated for around 60 to 70 days before hatching.
Appearance & Colors
Appearance
- Size: Blood pythons are medium to large-sized snakes, typically reaching lengths of 4 to 6 feet, although some individuals can grow larger.
- Build: They have a robust, heavy-bodied build with a thick midsection.
- Head: They have broad heads that are distinct from their necks.
- Scales: Their scales are smooth and shiny.
- Coloration: Blood pythons are known for their striking and vibrant colors. Their base color can vary from deep red to orange-red, with darker markings often forming irregular blotches or stripes along their bodies. The intensity of their coloration can vary between individuals, with some being brighter and more vivid than others.
Average Blood Python Size
On average, blood pythons (Python brongersmai) reach lengths of 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 meters) in captivity, with females generally being larger than males. However, they can occasionally grow larger, with some individuals reaching lengths of up to 7 feet (2.1 meters).
Lifespan
Blood pythons (Python brongersmai) have a lifespan of about 20 to 30 years in captivity with proper care. In the wild, their lifespan may be shorter due to various factors such as predation, disease, and habitat challenges.
Blood Python Care
Housing
- Enclosure: Provide a secure enclosure with a minimum size of 40 gallons for a juvenile and at least 75 gallons for an adult.
- Substrate: Cypress mulch, coconut husk, or aspen bedding works well as substrate.
- Hide boxes: Offer multiple hide boxes at both the warm and cool ends of the enclosure.
- Temperature: Maintain a temperature gradient of 80-85°F (26-29°C) on the cool side and 88-92°F (31-33°C) on the warm side.
Humidity
- Humidity Level: Keep the humidity level between 50-60%. This can be achieved by misting the enclosure and using a substrate that retains moisture well.
- Humidity Maintenance: Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels and a misting system or spray bottle to increase humidity as needed.
Feeding
- Diet: Blood pythons are carnivores. Feed them appropriately sized rodents. Adults may eat small rabbits.
- Feeding Schedule: Feed juveniles every 7-10 days and adults every 10-14 days. Adjust the feeding schedule according to the snake’s appetite and growth rate.
- Handling During Feeding: Avoid handling the snake for at least 24 hours after feeding to prevent regurgitation.
Handling
- Minimal Handling: Blood pythons can be defensive and may bite if they feel threatened. Handle them minimally and confidently to reduce stress.
- Support the Body: When handling, support the snake’s body properly to prevent injury.
Health
- Regular Health Checks: Check your snake for signs of illness or injury regularly.
- Veterinary Care: Find a reptile veterinarian experienced with snakes in case your pet needs medical attention.
- Quarantine: Quarantine new snakes before introducing them to your collection to prevent the spread of disease.
Enclosure Size
- Hatchling to Juvenile (up to 3 feet):
- Enclosure size: 20-gallon long tank (30″ x 12″ x 12″) or similar sized enclosure.
- Sub-Adult (3 to 5 feet):
- Enclosure size: 40-gallon breeder tank (36″ x 18″ x 16″) or similar sized enclosure.
- Adult (5 to 6 feet):
- Enclosure size: At least a 75-gallon tank (48″ x 18″ x 21″) or similar sized enclosure.
- Large Adult (over 6 feet):
- Enclosure size: At least a 120-gallon tank (48″ x 24″ x 24″) or similar sized enclosure.
Habitat
Enclosure
- A glass terrarium or a plastic enclosure is suitable.
- For an adult blood python, a 40-gallon tank is the minimum size, but bigger is better.
- Provide a secure, locking lid to prevent escape.
- Ensure good ventilation while maintaining humidity.
Substrate
- Maintain a substrate depth of 2-3 inches for burrowing.
Temperature
- The warm side should be 88-92°F (31-33°C).
- Use heat mats or ceramic heat emitters to maintain temperatures.
Humidity
- Maintain humidity between 50-60%.
- Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels.
Lighting
- Blood pythons are primarily nocturnal, so they don’t require UVB lighting.
- Provide a 12-hour light cycle using a low-wattage bulb for a day-night cycle.
Hiding Places
- Offer at least two hiding spots, one on the warm side and one on the cool side.
- Use cork bark, half logs, or commercially available hides.
Water
- Provide a large, sturdy water bowl for soaking.
- Change the water daily to maintain cleanliness.
Décor
- Provide branches and fake plants for climbing and enrichment.
- Ensure all décor items are secure and won’t fall on the snake.
Maintenance
- Spot clean the enclosure daily.
- Change the substrate monthly or as needed.
Handling Them
Approach with Confidence: Blood pythons can sense fear and uncertainty, so it’s important to approach them confidently but gently.
Support their Body: When picking up a blood python, support its body fully to make it feel secure. Use both hands to support its weight, with one hand supporting the front third of its body and the other supporting the middle.
Avoid Sudden Movements: Quick movements can startle a blood python, so make sure your movements are slow and deliberate.
Be Patient: If the snake seems nervous or defensive, give it some time to calm down before attempting to handle it.
Start with Short Sessions: If the snake is not used to being handled, start with short handling sessions and gradually increase the duration as it becomes more comfortable.
Possible Health Issues
- Respiratory Infections: Often caused by inadequate temperature and humidity levels or improper ventilation.
- Mites and External Parasites: These can irritate, and discomfort, and lead to more severe health issues if not treated.
- Internal Parasites: Internal parasites such as worms can cause digestive issues and weight loss.
- Scale Rot: This is a bacterial infection usually caused by prolonged exposure to damp or dirty substrate.
- Injuries: Common injuries include burns from heat sources, cuts, and abrasions from rough or sharp objects in their enclosure.
Food & Diet
Prey Size: Feed your blood python appropriately sized prey items. A good rule of thumb is to offer prey that is about the same width as the thickest part of your snake’s body.
Feeding Frequency: Blood pythons are not as active as some other snake species, so they don’t need to eat as often. Generally, feeding adult blood pythons once every 1-2 weeks is sufficient.
Variety: While rodents should make up the majority of their diet, it’s good to vary their diet occasionally. You can offer other prey items like chicks or quail to add variety.
Prey Type: Stick to feeding your blood python frozen-thawed prey items. This is safer for your snake and eliminates the risk of injury that live prey might pose.
Water: Always ensure your blood python has access to clean, fresh water.
Blood pythons (Python brongersmai) require a high level of humidity in their enclosure to thrive. The humidity level should be maintained between 50% and 80%. You can achieve this by misting the enclosure regularly, providing a large water bowl, and using a substrate that retains moisture well, such as cypress mulch or coconut husk. Additionally, using a hygrometer to monitor the humidity levels is essential to ensure they stay within the appropriate range.
Blood pythons (Python brongersmai) are not aquatic snakes, meaning they don’t live in water. However, like all snakes, they do need access to water for drinking and soaking. Additionally, maintaining the humidity levels in their enclosure is crucial for their health and shedding process.
Temperature & Lighting
Temperature
- Ambient Temperature: Keep the ambient temperature in the enclosure between 78-82°F (25-28°C) during the day.
- Basking Spot: Provide a basking spot with a temperature of around 88-92°F (31-33°C).
- Night Temperature: Allow the temperature to drop slightly at night, around 75-80°F (24-27°C).
Heating
- Use a heat source such as an under-tank heater or a ceramic heat emitter to create a basking spot. Make sure to use thermostats to regulate the temperature and prevent overheating.
Lighting
- Blood pythons are nocturnal, so they do not require UVB lighting. However, providing a light cycle can help regulate their day-night cycle and promote natural behaviors.
- Use a timer to provide a 10-12 hour light cycle per day.
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